Remote Lines

Jamie Innes - 16/01/2005

To go remote? or not to go remote?

Most markers thesedays come with some kind of bottomline setup as thier standard air setup. The bottomline being an ASA you screw your tank into, which leads out of the trigger grip. Without going into different air setups, your typical remote line comes with an asa adaptor which screws into your bottomline, meaning everybody can use a remote.

- The Pros Of Remotes.

The most obvious pro is that it gets your tank off your marker, and onto your side, or your back, at belt level, or somewhere on a tactical vest. This makes your marker lighter, which can have other positive effects depending on your playing style. Additionally, the remote aids in giving your marker a milsim look (if that's what you're after) by removing the unsightly looking tank.

On a more practical note, since your tank will usually be sitting vertically, and has to travel through a length of hose, there's less chance you'll get liquid CO2 into your marker (If you use CO2). The remote also gives the CO2 more space to expand in before getting in your marker. More space than 4-6 inches of steel braided hose.

- The Cons Of Remotes.

Since you're trading a tank on your marker for a length of hose, the hose can, and eventually will get caught on things. A coiled remote can become caught on itself (like a telephone cable), or otherwise, a steel braided remote can become caught on bushes and branches when playing in the woods.

Remotes can restrict your ability to move. If you're the type of person that likes to get low to the ground and needs to be able to turn on your side or back when lying prone (To fire or get cover from paintballs), a remote may not be the best, because having the tank on your back can be something of a problem in these situations. Also, depending on what type of remote you have, switching from right to left handed shooting can be a problem... depending on how long and flexible your remote is.

- The Anatomy Of A Remote

Not all remotes are created equal. If you're looking into buying one, there's a few things you need to know of before you buy one. For me to explain this, just keep in mind that the gas travels one way, from your tank, to your marker.

• On/Off Valve. Some Co2/Air tanks come with an on/off valve, or built in regulator. If you've got this, it can be a useful tool for turning on and off the gas to your remote. Otherwise, your remote will probably come with an on/off valve, usually it's a circular knob on top of where the tank screws into your remote.
• The Hose.The hose is either a coiled hose, or steel braided remote. The coiled hose has it's upsides in that it "hugs" close to your body, and extends when needed. On the other hand, a steel braided hose sticks out all by itself which can sometimes mean it catches on things. But by and large they are essentially the same.
• Slide Check. This is a drum shaped slide that moves about 1cm, to gas or degass your marker. You slide it with your fingers. When degassed, it retains the gas inside the hose, but degassed the marker. A slide check is a fairly essential acessory that comes standard in most remotes.
• Quick Disconnect. Simply put, this is self explainatory, a seal that allows to to connect or disconnect from your marker. Usually the fitting is under too much pressure for you to disconnect while in play.

All of these features are fairly essential for a remote line. You can do without 1 or 2 of them, but ideally you will want all four (The hose is integrated anyway) for maximum convenience.

- Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Does my remote run on co2 or air?
A: Both

Q: Is it true that remotes act like an expansion chamber?
A: Technically yes, because the gas has a greater distance to travel, however how much expansion you actually get is much harder to estimate.

Q: My remote doesn't have feature X
A: You can change or adjust the fittings by simply unscrewing them. However when you reassemble, the fittings need to be air tight. For this you need an air tight sealant.

Q: What kind of sealant should I use on the fittings if I adjust or change them?
A: Teflon tape, or white (Low strength) or blue (medium strength) loctite. (Red loctite is maximum strength and not reccomended for fittings you may need to later change or adjust. You can buy loctite from hardware or engineering supply stores.

Q: Should I get a braided or coiled remote?
A: It's up to you. Both have thier pros and cons. Coiled remotes tend to "hug" your body better, however they get snagged on things a little easier.

Q: My remote is leaking, help!
A: First determine the source of the leak, sometimes one of the fittings may need more sealant. If you have a slide check, the internal o-rings dry up and need to be lubricated with oil. Disassemble your slide check by removing the "snap ring".

Q: Since my tank is no longer on my marker, how should I carry my tank?
A: 1.The most common way is to use a 4+1 harness. (4 pods, 1 tank). The tank sits vertically in the center of your back between the pods. Other tank-harnesses come in 2+1, 6+1 and 8+1.

2. You can also use a tactical vest such as Cops911 or Flurry Industries vest. These usually place the tank in the same or similar position, but the weight of your pods & tank is better carried since all the weight is over your torse rather than around your waist.

3. You can also buy tank carry pouches that are leg or belt mounted. Belt mounted pouches are versatile because you can shift the tank to wherever on your waist you feel comfortable.

Credits...
"Lapco Slide Check Valve" thanks to LAPCO Direct

Jamie Innes