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Frequently Asked Questions

1. Do parts for the Kawasaki ER-6F, ER-6N and Versys fit the Ninja 650R?

2. Where can I get touch-up paint for my motorcycle?

3. My Owners Manual shows a “Passing Button”, where is it?

4. My Owners Manual shows a U Lock, what and where is it?

5. My motorcycle came without grab handles, how do I get these?

6. What is the purpose of the black rubber hose sticking down near the side stand?

7. My Owners Manual shows helmet tethers, what are these and why hasn’t my motorcycle got them?

8. My motorcycle makes a high pitched whining or hissing noise when it parked for a short period. What is this noise?

9. I have notice that there is an electrical connector under the front sprocket cover on the LHS of my motorcycle which is not connected to anything. What is this for and is it OK?

10. My motorcycle makes a loud buzzing noise at lower RPM. It’s noticeable at particular RPM ranges and it’s getting worse. What is this noise?

11. On my Ninja 650R (ER-6F) the rear vision mirrors are not very good; all I can see are my forearms. What can I do to improve them?

12. My motorcycle makes a loud clunk and there is a slight lurch when I shift it into first gear from neutral. Why does it do this and is it OK?

13. What RPM should my motorcycle idle at?

14. How do I check my oil and coolant levels?

15. What pressure should I run my tyres at?

16. What is carried out at the first 1000 km (600 mile) service?

17. My dealer tells me that the valve clearances should be checked and re-shimmed at the 1000 km (600 mile) service, is this right?

18. What octane fuel should I use in the motorcycle?

19. I want to remove my fuel tank, how do I do this?

20. How do I set up or adjust my suspension?

21. Does the Ninja 650R (ER-6F and ER-6N) have a rev limiter?

22. I’ve heard a lot about a Power Commander PCIII, what is this?

23. Why does my motorcycle idle higher sometimes, then the RPM drops?

24. How do I winterise my Ninja 650R (ER-6F and ER-6N)?

25. I have heard that the Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) and ER6N engine has a 180 degree crankshaft, what does this mean?

26. I have heard about a possible issue with the frame (chassis) on the Ninja 650R (ER-6F and ER-6N), what is this all about?

27. What sort of fuel economy should I expect from the Ninja 650R (ER-6F) or ER-6N?

28. How far can I ride on a tank of fuel?

29. I noticed that there is an electrical connector (orange/black wire) under the seat on the RHS of my motorcycle which is not connected to anything. What is this for and is it OK?

30. My speedometer is not very accurate, how far out is it and what can I do about it?

31. I have fitted an aftermarket exhaust to my motorcycle. Am I still covered by the Kawasaki warranty?

32. If I carry out my own maintenance and service checks on my motorcycle am I still covered by the Kawasaki warranty?

33. What do I do about Insurance?

34. I don’t have an Owners Manual, how do I set the clock on the instrument cluster?

35. I have fitted an aftermarket exhaust (slip-on) and I’m getting a lot of popping (and backfire) when I back off the throttle and accelerate. I have been told to “plug” the Pair Valve, what is this?

36. My seat is too high (or low) and it isn’t comfortable. How can I improve this?

37. The FI light on my Instrument Panel has illuminated. What do I do?

38. What do all the digits in my VIN Number mean?

39. I have noticed that there are two electrical connectors under the seat that are not connected to anything. What are they for and is this OK?

40. What’s the best “break in” procedure for my engine?

41. What engine oil should I use and is it safe to use synthetic oil. Can I use automotive oil?

Q. Do parts for the Kawasaki ER-6F, ER-6N and Versys fit the Ninja 650R?

A. Yes and no. Kawasaki has now based a number of motorcycles around the parallel twin motor fitted to the Ninja 650R. Briefly stated, the Ninja 650R and the ER-6F are exactly the same motorcycle. In North America and New Zealand the motorcycle is marketed as the Ninja 650R and in Europe, South Africa, Australia and parts of Southeast Asia it is sold as the ER-6F.

The ER-6N is a naked version of the same model and was only sold in some markets (read not in the USA before 2009). Other than different fairings, instrument panels and headlight assembly the only physical difference (according to Kawasaki literature) between the two models is the rake and trail:

ER-6N - 24.5 deg & 102mm
ER-6F (Ninja 650R) - 25 deg & 106mm

It is possible that physically both chassis are identical as this difference could be attributed to the height of the front forks in the triple clamps. The Ninja 650R (ER-6F) was delivered ex factory with the forks set so that the caps are flush with Steering Stem Head. The Kawasaki manual indicates that the fork caps should sit approximately 10mm above the top of the Steering Stem Head, this will alter rake and trail.

So to sum up, other than some decals, all parts designated ER-6F or Ninja 650R are interchangeable. Use caution when ordering bodywork parts for the ER-6N. As both models have the same motor, brakes and drive, you should be relatively safe with these items.

The Versys (short for VERsatile SYSstem) is a “dual purpose” model fitted with the same parallel twin engine, however major differences do exist with the chassis and bodywork parts. There will likely be some common components but it would pay to check the parts catalogue before ordering Versys parts for your Ninja 650R (ER-6F) or ER-6N and vice versa.

Model designators are as follows:

Model	Year	Description
EX650A6F	2006	Ninja 650R (ER-6F) North America, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia
EX650A6FL	2006	Ninja 650R California
EX650A6S	2006	ER-6F Europe, South Africa
EX650B6F	2006	ER-6F fitted with ABS (anti-lock brake system)
ER650A6F	2006	ER-6N New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia
ER650A6S	2006	ER-6N Europe, South Africa
ER650B6F	2006	ER-6N fitted with ABS
EX650A7F	2007	Ninja 650R (ER-6F) North America, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia
EX650A7FL	2007	Ninja 650R California
EX650A7S	2007	ER-6F Europe, South Africa
EX650B7F	2007	ER-6F fitted with ABS (anti-lock brake system)
ER650A7F	2007	ER-6N New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia
ER650A7S	2007	ER-6N Europe, South Africa
ER650B7F	2007	ER-6N fitted with ABS
KLE650A7F	2007	Versys
KLE650B7F	2007	Versys fitted with ABS
EX650A8F	2008	Ninja 650R (ER-6F) North America, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia
EX650A8FL	2008	Ninja 650R California
EX650A8S	2008	ER-6F Europe, South Africa
EX650B8F	2008	ER-6F fitted with ABS (anti-lock brake system)
ER650A8F	2008	ER-6N New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia
ER650A8S	2008	ER-6N Europe, South Africa
ER650B8F	2008	ER-6N fitted with ABS
KLE650A8F	2008	Versys
KLE650B8F	2008	Versys fitted with ABS
EX650C9F	2009	Ninja 650R (ER-6F) North America, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia
EX650C9FL	2009	Ninja 650R California
EX650D9F	2009	ER-6F fitted with ABS (anti-lock brake system)
ER650C9F	2009	ER-6N North America, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia
ER650D9F	2009	ER-6N fitted with ABS
KLE650A9F	2009	Versys
KLE650A9FL	2009	Versys California
KLE650B9F	2009	Versys fitted with ABS
EX650CAF	2010	Ninja 650R (ER-6F) North America, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia
EX650CAFL	2010	Ninja 650R California
EX650DAF	2010	ER-6F fitted with ABS (anti-lock brake system)
ER650CAF	2010	ER-6N North America, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia
ER650DAF	2010	ER-6N fitted with ABS
KLE650CAF	2010	Versys
KLE650CAFL	2010	Versys California
KLE650DAF	2010	Versys fitted with ABS

Other than the different bodywork colours offered to buyers there does not appear to be any improved features between the 2006, 2007 and 2008 models, however different markets do appear to get differing frame and bodywork colour combinations.

The 2009 and 2010 model is an updated “2^nd Generation” bike from Kawasaki. It features new styling and an updated suspension and engine mounts. Bodywork and chassis is completely different from earlier models although the engine and a number of accessories remain the same.

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Q. Where can I get touch-up paint for my motorcycle?

A. ColorRite sells touch-up paint, available in pen, jar, aerosols and tin quantities. ColorRite touch-up paint is available in the following colours:

2006 Models

Colour	Code	Description
Ebony Black	602	Bodywork colour – black/silver two-tone
Galaxy Silver Type #2	474	Bodywork colour – silver/gray two-tone and black/silver two-tone
Metallic Graystone	KM	Bodywork colour – silver/gray two-tone
Frame Persimmon Red	796	Frame colour – all red pieces

2007 Models

Colour	Code	Description
Ebony Black	602	Wheel colour
Metallic Phantom Silver	458	Frame colour
Metallic Graystone	KM	Wheel colour
Candy Plasma Blue		Bodywork colour
Passion Red		Bodywork colour

2008 Models

Colour	Code	Description
Frame Persimmon Red	796	Wheel colour on black model
Metallic Phantom Silver	458	Swingarm on black model
Flat Stoic Black	8F	Frame/swingarm/wheels on red and green model
Lime Green	617	Bodywork colour
Metallic Diablo Black	17K	Bodywork colour
Sunbeam Red	639	Bodywork colour

2009 Models

Colour	Code	Description
Ebony Black	602	Wheel colour
Metallic Phantom Silver	458	Frame, swingarm, forks and all silver accents on green and red model
Flat Super Black	18R	Lower cowl, engine, frame covers
Lime Green	617	Bodywork colour
Metallic Diablo Black	17K	Bodywork colour
Passion Red		Bodywork colour

2010 Models

Colour	Code	Description
Ebony Black	602	Wheel colour
Lime Green		Bodywork colour

Kawasaki UK have advised some owners that touch-up paint can be ordered using the following part numbers:

Ebony (H8) – P/N 56019-108-H8

Galaxy Silver Type 2 (474) – P/N 56019-108-474

Vivid Yellow (789) – P/N 56019-108-789

Frame Gold (793) – P/N 56019-108-793

This would appear to indicate that the base Kawasaki part number for a 1/12 litre of touch up paint is 56019-108 with the last dash number representing the paint colour code, it is likely that other touch-up paint colours could be ordered through Kawasaki if the colour code is known. Contact Kawasaki in your country or your local Kawasaki dealer to confirm that it is available.

Owners report close matches have been made with the following paints:

Persimmon Red (796) – Ford Lacquer Touch-up Paint (automotive refinishing paint) Toreador Red Colour Code ALBZ-19500-6758A FL, FN or Dupli-Color NG FM 344 Toreador Red Metallic (FL Ford).

Metallic Phantom Silver (458) – Rust-oleum Metallic – Silver Metallic (7271830) or Rust-oleum Professional Metallic – Silver Metallic (244493) spray can.

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Q. My Owners Manual shows a “Passing Button”, where is it?

A. The “Passing button is only available on UK and European models

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Q. My Owners Manual shows a U Lock, what and where is it?

A. The U lock is a U shaped lock used to secure your motorcycle against theft, the U Lock is an optional accessory and has to be purchased from your Kawasaki Dealer or an accessory retailer.

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Q. My motorcycle came without grab handles, how do I get these?

A. Grab handles are an optional accessory and have has to be purchased from your Kawasaki Dealer or Kawasaki parts retailer, the required part numbers are as follows:

L/H Grab Handle – 46075-0033

R/H Grab Handle – 46075-0034

Fitment is simple, the hex screws and washers should already be in place under the seat pad.

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Q. What is the purpose of the black rubber hose sticking down near the side stand?

A. This is a drain hose for the fuel tank overflow cavity, this cavity is the inner area around your fuel cap and the drain prevents fuel spillage harming your fuel tank’s exterior paint if the fuel tank is accidentally overfilled.

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Q. My Owners Manual shows helmet tethers, what are these and why hasn’t my motorcycle got them?

A. Helmet tethers are plastic coated wires that are bolted at one end to sub-frame under the passenger seat. There purpose is to attach helmets to your motorcycle when you are parked. Simply take the seat off, pass the tether through your helmet buckle and attach the eyelet to the hook on the sub-frame. With the seat reattached your helmet is secured.

Some models sold in states (and possibly countries) outside California, USA, came without helmet tethers fitted. Pressure from owners with these models forced Kawasaki USA to issue a Factory Directed Repair (FDM #1). Owners received a “recall notice” letter with details on having the helmet tethers fitted free of charge. Contact your Kawasaki Dealer if your motorcycle doesn’t have helmet tethers too arrange for a kit to be fitted.

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Q. My motorcycle makes a high pitched whining or hissing noise when it parked for a short period. What is this noise?

A. This is the gas tank venting due to heat build-up, probably from the engine. There have also been reports of this occurring when the motorcycle is parked in strong sunlight. It is completely normal.

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Q. I have notice that there is an electrical connector under the front sprocket cover on the LHS of my motorcycle which is not connected to anything. What is this for and is it OK?

A. This connector is for an oxygen sensor which is not fitted to models in some countries including the USA. The oxygen sensor is fitted to European models as standard to make it a closed loop EFI system and comply with Euro 3 emission standards. That it is not connected is normal.

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Q. My motorcycle makes a loud buzzing noise at lower RPM. It’s noticeable at particular RPM ranges and it’s getting worse. What is this noise?

A. This is the infamous “fairing buzz”. No definite cause has been agreed by owners, its actual cause may in fact vary from one motorcycle to another. Likely areas are:

The Upper Cowling (centre) and Headlight Assembly

L/H and R/H Main Cowling Inner Panels

L/H and R/H Main Cowling Upper Trim Panels

Kawasaki has issued a Factory Authorised Repair (FAR) comprising installation paperwork and self adhesive damper kits P/N 99999-0093 and P/N 99999-0095. A copy of the FAR (EX650A6F Installation Instructions for Cowling Panel Vibration Damper Kits) and a user guide for those attempting to solve the problem are located on this website in the Downloads area.

Kawasaki have also recently issued another kit (P/N 99999-0097), to date what this kit contains is not known. The “fairing buzz” is a warranty issue and is being addressed by Kawasaki. In the first instance you should contact you Kawasaki Dealer and ask them to remedy this fault.

Briefly, if you wish to carry out the fix yourself use the loop side of self-adhesive Velcro tape to cover any chaff marks found on the fairings and self-adhesive foam around the inside of the centre fairing between the centre fairing and the headlight assembly.

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Q. On my Ninja 650R (ER-6F) the rear vision mirrors are not very good; all I can see are my forearms. What can I do to improve them?

A. A German company SW-Motech sell mirror extenders (sometimes called mirror wideners, P/N SVL.08.500.100). These devices extend the length of the mirror arm by approximately 25-35mm (1-1.5 inches). Use care when fitting as the original hex head pivot bolt (which must be removed) for the OEM mirror stalk is very tight. Use a 3/8 drive socket set power bar and a hex drive socket of the correct size for removal.

Owners of the SW-Motech extenders do report that over time the “black” powder coating fads to a slightly bluish tinge.

Another option is inverted mirrors, pictures and plans for manufacture of a bracket are located on this website in the Downloads area. Some owners have fitted standard mirrors, these can mount in the brake and clutch lever brackets as the Ninja 650R (ER-6F) uses the same brackets as the ER-6N. Bar end mirrors are also another option.

Some owners have fitted Kawasaki ZX-14R mirrors. These require minor modification to the base of the stalks for clearance. These mirrors when fitted are approximately 1 inch wider and slightly lower than stock.

As of 2008 Kawasaki have introduced there own Mirror Extenders as an optional accessory (P/N 119MIS0002) and can be purchased through your Kawasaki Dealer. These Mirror Extenders appear very similar to the SW-Motech items and function in the same fashion.

As mentioned the ER-6N has its mirrors fitted to the brake and clutch lever perches, there are mirror extenders available for this model as well. SW-Motech (P/N SVL.00.505.101) and Kawasaki (P/N 119MIS0001).

Owners advise that 2009-10 mirrors fit the 2006-08 models and provide better visibility due to their additional length.

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Q. My motorcycle makes a loud clunk and there is a slight lurch when I shift it into first gear from neutral. Why does it do this and is it OK?

A. The motorcycle gearbox (sometimes referred to as the transmission) is a constant mesh sequential design, unlike a car that uses synchromesh to change gears and allows the driver to select any gear at any time, on a motorcycle the rider can only select the next highest or lowest gear. The term constant mesh refers to the fact that there are two gears (a drive gear and a driven gear) for each gear change (twelve in total for the Ninja 650R) and all these gears are constantly engaged with their respective partners.

The gears are arranged on two shafts, the six drive gears on the mainshaft are connected to the engine via the clutch and the six driven gears on the countershaft are connected individually to the sprocket that drives the chain. All the drive gears are splined onto the mainshaft and all the driven gears rotate freely. A gear is selected by the use of a dog, one for each gear. Each dog is splined onto the countershaft and slides along the spline, as they do so they engage the driven gear connecting it to the countershaft. Shift forks move the dogs in and out of gear.

The oil bath clutch has some drag, especially when the oil is cold, and doesn’t disengage all the way, this allows the mainshaft to spin in neutral. The countershaft however is stationary as it’s connected to the rear wheel. Selecting first gear you move the shift fork, sliding the dog along the countershaft until it engages the first gear cluster…. Clunk, lurch!

Don’t worry, it’s completely normal. Clutch free-play (2-3 mm or 0.08-0.12 in) may need adjusting or a change of engine oil (to another brand or viscosity) may be needed if the clunk and lurch becomes too violent. Some owners have found that this “problem” improves or completely disappears after the break-in period.

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Q. What RPM should my motorcycle idle at?

A. The Service Manual states that the engine should idle between 1250 RPM and 1350 RPM. Idle speed adjustment can be carried by rotating the adjuster screw (black knob) on the right hand side of the motorcycle just aft of the main fairing above the clutch housing. Also check your throttle grip play, this should be between 2-3 mm (0.08-0.12 in). On the ER-6N, idle speed adjustment can be carried out by rotating the knurled knob on the right hand side of the motorcycle just aft of the throttle quadrant below the fuel tank.

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Q. How do I check my oil and coolant levels?

A. Check all your fluid levels with the motorcycle level, a motorcycle stand (sometimes called a track or paddock stand) is best as this is a known vertical for the bike to sit. If the fluid levels are checked in this same position each time any fluid loss will quickly become apparent.

Oil – SAE 10W-40 or 10W-50 meeting specs API SE, SF, SG or API SH, SJ, SL with JASO MA. Check several minutes after the engine has been run, oil level between the upper and lower marks on the sight glass. The recommended oil viscosity may vary dependant on the operating climate. Always ensure you are using the correct specification motorcycle specific oil. Don’t use cheap oil, it will cost you in the long run. I always use “brand name” oils.

Coolant – Ethylene glycol mixed 50% (1:1) with distilled water. Check with the engine cold, fluid level between the F and L lines in the overflow tank.

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Q. What pressure should I run my tyres at?

A. The owners manual recommends tyres are checked daily and when cold:

Front – 32 PSI (225 kPa)

Rear – 36 PSI (250 kPa)

Wear limits are as follows:

Front minimum tread depth – 1 mm (0.04 in)

Rear minimum tread depth under 130 kph (80 mph) – 2 mm (0.08 in)

Rear minimum tread depth over 130 kph (80 mph) – 3 mm (0.12 in)

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Q. What is carried out at the first 1000 km (600 mile) service?

A. Service items and their frequency are detailed in the following tables (taken from the Owners Manual), items in the 1000 km (600 mile) column are carried when the motorcycle reaches that distance. Items in the remaining columns are carried out when the motorcycle reaches those distances and above 36,000 km (24,000 miles) the frequency is repeated (except for the 1000 km / 600 mile service).

	Frequency – Time (years) and Distance (km/miles) whichever occurs first
Task	Time (Years)	1000 (600)	6000 (4000)	12000 (7500)	18000 (12000)	24000 (15000)	30000 (20000)	360000 (24000)
Engine
Clean air cleaner element				*		*		*
Inspect valve clearances						*
Inspect and adjust throttle control system (play, smooth return, no drag)	1 year	*		*		*		*
Check and adjust engine vacuum synchronisation				*		*		*
Check and adjust idle speed		*		*		*		*
Inspect for fuel leaks (fuel hose and pipes)	1 year	*		*		*		*
Inspect fuel hoses for damage	1 year	*		*		*		*
Inspect fuel hose installation for condition	1 year	*		*		*		*
Check coolant level	1 year	*		*		*		*
Inspect for coolant leaks	1 year	*		*		*		*
Inspect radiator hoses for damage	1 year	*		*		*		*
Inspect radiator hose installation for condition	1 year	*		*		*		*
Inspect air suction system for damage				*		*		*
Clutch and Drive Chain
Inspect clutch operation (play, engagement, disengagement)		*		*		*		*
Inspect drive chain for condition and lubricate #	Inspect and lubricate every 600 km (400 miles)
Inspect drive chain for slack (correct tension) #	Check every 1000 km (600 miles)
Inspect drive chain for wear #				*		*		*
Inspect drive chain guide for wear				*		*		*
Wheels and Tyres
Check tyre air pressure	1 year			*		*		*
Inspect wheels and tyres for damage				*		*		*
Inspect tyre tread for wear and abnormal wear				*		*		*
Inspect wheel bearings for damage	1 year			*		*		*
Brake Systems
Inspect for brake fluid leaks	1 year	*	*	*	*	*	*	*
Inspect brake hose for damage	1 year	*	*	*	*	*	*	*
Inspect brake pads for wear #			*	*	*	*	*	*
Inspect brake hose installation for condition	1 year	*	*	*	*	*	*	*
Check brake fluid levels	6 months	*	*	*	*	*	*	*
Inspect brake operation (effectiveness, play, drag)	1 year	*	*	*	*	*	*	*
Inspect brake light switches for operation		*	*	*	*	*	*	*
Suspensions
Inspect front forks and rear shock absorber for operation (damping and smooth stroke)				*		*		*
Inspect front forks and rear shock absorber for oil leaks	1 year			*		*		*
Steering System
Inspect steering for play	1 year	*		*		*		*
Lubricate steering stem bearings	2 years					*
Electrical System
Inspect lights and switches for operation	1 year			*		*		*
Inspect headlight aiming (alignment)	1 year			*		*		*
Inspect side stand switch operation	1 year			*		*		*
Inspect engine stop switch operation	1 year			*		*		*
Chassis
Lubricate chassis parts	1 year			*		*		*
Check bolts and nuts for tightness		*		*		*		*
# Service more frequently when operating in severe condition (dusty wet, muddy, high speed frequent start/stop

	Frequency – Time (years) and Distance (km/miles) whichever occurs first
Task	Time (Years)	1000 (600)	12000 (7500)	24000 (15000)	360000 (24000)	48000 (30000)
Component and Fluid Replacement
Air cleaner element #	2 years
Engine oil #	1 year	*	*	*	*	*
Engine oil filter	1 year	*	*	*	*	*
Fuel hoses	4 years					*
Coolant	3 years				*
Radiator hoses and o-rings	3 years				*
Brake hoses	4 years					*
Brake fluid (front and rear)	2 years			*		*
Rubber parts of brake master cylinders and callipers	4 years
Spark plugs			*	*	*	*
# Service more frequently when operating in severe condition (dusty wet, muddy, high speed frequent start/stop

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Q. My dealer tells me that the valve clearances should be checked and re-shimmed at the 1000 km (600 mile) service, is this right?

A. No. The valve clearance check is not called up by Kawasaki until the 24,000 km (15,000 mile) service. Seek independent advice or contact Kawasaki if your dealer insists or charges you for this inspection during the first service.

* Note: There is a discrepancy between Owners Manual and the Service Manual. The Owners Manual and the Service Manual for both the Ninja 650R (ER-6F) and the ER-6N both differ on when the valve clearance check should be carried out. The Owners Manual for all models indicates 24,000 km (15,000 miles) and the Service Manual indicates 42,000 km (26,000 miles). Which takes precedence is open to debate however I would recommend that owners err on the conservative side and carry out the check at 24,000 km (15,000 miles) as other Kawasaki Service Manuals for bikes of this era use this interval.

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Q. What octane fuel should I use in the motorcycle?

A. Use clean, fresh, unleaded petrol with anti-knock index of 87. Petrol’s octane rating is a measurement of the fuels ability to resist knocking. Countries display their fuel octane at the service station pumps in different ways. Some display the Research Octane Number (RON), others display Motor Octane Number (MON). The anti-knock index is:

(RON + MON) = Pump Octane Number (PON) 87

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To summarise, what this means if the fuel in your country is displayed at the pump using the RON index, use 91, if it is PON use 87. In the USA, service station pumps display PON, most owners use 87, in New Zealand and Australia they utilise RON, use 91 and in the UK, 95 is the normal grade.

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Q. I want to remove my fuel tank, how do I do this?

A. Take off the seat and remove the two Phillips head screws that hold on the tank/seat side trim. Remove the trim by pulling it out of the clips which hold it in place along the side, take care not to loose the rubber spacers on the fuel tank seam at the forward end of the trim.

Remove the two 12 mm bolts that hold the seat front locator “U” bracket in place. Gently lift the tank and support it with a small wooden block approx 2” high. On the left hand side disconnect the electrical connector to the fuel pump and the fuel tank cap vent line (black hose). On the right hand side disconnect the main fuel hose by sliding the red locking tab on the female connector (hose side closest to the engine) out until it reaches its stops. Support the male connector (hose side, closest to the tank) and pull the connectors apart. A small amount of fuel may leak from the connectors but the tank will not drain.

A small flat blade screwdriver may be needed to open the locking tab. The fuel tank can now be removed by sliding it aft off the two rubber mounts on the front frame. Installation is the reverse procedure.

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Q. How do I set up or adjust my suspension?

A. The only suspension adjustment that can be made to a stock Ninja 650R (ER-6F) or ER-6N is the rear shock absorber preload. Owners rarely need to adjust their preload, it is set once for their weight and then generally never touched again. Rebound and compression are properties that can smooth out the ride or make the motorcycle firmer. Unfortunately these features are not adjustable on this motorcycle without replacing the stock rear shock absorber or making changes to the front forks.

Changes that can be made to the front forks include replacing the fork oil with oil of a different viscosity, fitting emulators (emulators are variable orifice valves that sit on top of the damping rods) or fitting replacement springs.

A simple method of setting up the rear shock absorber preload is to rotating the adjuster on the shock absorber to the correct position (1 thru 7) based on your weight including riding gear.

Position	Weight (kg)	Weight (lbs)
1	50	110
2	60	135
3	75	165
4	85	185
5	95	205
6	105	225
7	115	245

These numbers are only approximate so play around with the adjustment until you find a setting that suites you.

Another method is to measure sag.

Using two assistants, lift the rear of the motorcycle off the ground (you could also lift the motorcycle completely off the ground with the use of a jack under the motor). With the motorcycle upright measure from the centre of the rear axle to a fixed point above, this is measurement L1. Place the motorcycle back on the ground and exercise the suspension a couple of times to remove any stickiness in the shock absorber. Again with the motorcycle upright measure from the centre of the rear axle to the same fixed point used before, this is measurement L2. Now sit on the motorcycle in full riding gear with your feet on the pegs, again exercise the suspension. With the bike supported in the upright position by an assistant measure from the centre of the rear axle to that fixed point, this is measurement L3.

Rider sag is the difference between L1 and L3, this should be approximately 30-40 mm (1.2-1.6 in). If your rider sag is less than 30 mm (1.2 in) then your preload is set too high. Turn the adjuster to a lower setting. If your rider sag is more than 40 mm (1.6 in) then your preload is set too low. Turn the adjuster to a higher setting.

Static sag is the difference between L1 and L2, this should be approximately 5-10 mm (0.2-0.4 in). If you have more than more than 10 mm (0.4 in) then you may need a stiffer spring. If your static sag is less than 5 mm (0.2 in) or you don’t have any static sag then your spring may be too hard.

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Q. Does the Ninja 650R (ER-6F and ER-6N) have a rev limiter?

A. Yes. Owners report that it cuts in between 11250-11500 rpm. Normally a rev limiter is placed in the electronic circuitry to prevent the engine from over-revving. At the pre-set rpm (11250-11500 rpm) the rev limiter engages and interrupts the signal to the coil, alternating on/off, slowing the firing sequence, and preventing the engine from over-revving.

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Q. I’ve heard a lot about a Power Commander PCIII, what is this?

A. The Ninja 650R (ER-6F) and ER-6N sold in most parts of the world runs a completely open loop fuel injection (FI) system, this is a fully mapped based spark and fuel control system with no oxygen sensor monitoring the exhaust gases. The fuel system’s electronic control unit (ECU) refers to a lookup table (called a map) thousand of times a second to pull up a predetermined value for firing the fuel injectors. This map is based on the current state of all the input sensors and includes:

1. Main throttle sensor.

2. Inlet air pressure sensor.

3. Inlet air temperature sensor.

4. Water temperature sensor.

5. Crankshaft sensor.

6. Speed sensor.

7. Vehicle down sensor.

8. Sub-throttle sensor.

Below about 3000 RPM both the duty cycle and the frequency of the injector firing is constantly updated by the ECU, above this RPM only the duty cycle changes.

Because there is no feedback from the exhaust to the ECU, the ECU cannot add or subtract “trim” (read more or less fuel on the fly). The predetermined injector open time remains as programmed. This program cannot be changed as the OEM ECU is sealed by Kawasaki and there is no provision for updates.

This is where the Power Commander (PCIII), Techlusion (TFi), Cobra (Fi-2000) or the Rapid Bike units come in. The injector drive signal from the ECU is intercepted and modified according to the new parameters in the unit’s own map and throttle position.

This map can be software setup like the PCIII and download via a USB connection to the unit or have a trim-pot setup like the Techlusion unit. Either way it is critically important that the proper map is used or trim-pots are set correctly. Maps can be downloaded from Power Commander (DynoJet) or a custom map created by running the bike on a dynamometer. Maps for particular exhaust combinations or setups are often passed from owner to owner.

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Q. Why does my motorcycle idle higher sometimes, then the RPM drops?

A. Idle warm mode (increased RPM at idle) is controlled by the ECU, the ECU monitors output from the Coolant Temperature Sensor and increases engine RPM until the engine is warm.

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Q. How do I winterise my Ninja 650R (ER-6F and ER-6N)?

A. The following appeared on the Ninja 650R and ER-6N Forum and is repeated here:

Materials needed:

1. Motorcycle engine oil.

2. Commercial gasoline stabilizer.

3. Full tank of gas mixed with above stabilizer.

4. Commercial vinyl and rubber preservative (silicone free).

5. 1 amp battery charger (Battery Tender brand or similar).

6. Motorcycle cover (a good quality cover breathes and will not trap moisture).

7. WD-40 or any moisture displacing lubricant.

Storage steps:

First, take your bike out for the last ride of the season. The ride should be long enough to get the engine up to operating temperature. On your way back home fill the fuel tank as much as possible. Only then can you start the steps below.

Thoroughly clean the entire motorcycle, you'll thank yourself when spring arrives!

Be sure all traces of moisture are gone, don't store a wet bike.

Place the motorcycle on rear and front stands, or centre stand if you have one. If you don't have a front stand, you can use two jacking stands to prop the forks up. The goal is to get the bike level and the tires off the ground. You don't want flat spots in your tires come spring. If you don't have stands, just remember to move the bike a few feet everyone few weeks over the winter this is so it's not always sitting on the same spot on the tire.

With the gas tank full, mix the gasoline stabilizer into the fuel tank using the amount of stabilizer recommended by its manufacturer. Un-stabilized fuel will form "gum" or "varnish" deposits that will plug the fuel system and Fuel Injection passageways. Be sure the fuel tank is as full as possible to eliminate any air space and to reduce the chances of the fuel becoming contaminated or the inside of your tank rusting.

To protect the top end of the engine from rust and corrosion run the engine for a few minutes to get the stabilized fuel through the system. Then, remove the spark plugs and pour 1 to 2 tablespoons of motorcycle engine oil into each spark plug hole. Reinstall the spark plugs. Do not reinstall the spark plug caps at this time. Turn the engine over a few times with the electric starter. Now reinstall the spark plug caps.

Note: Some would argue that pouring oil down the spark plug holes to coat the cylinder is unneeded work. If it’s possible do it, it won’t hurt anything. If you can't get to them, or don't have time, or just too lazy, don't worry about it – it’s not super important unless you're storing the bike for over 12 months.

While the engine is still warm, drain the old engine oil and drain the oil filter, replace the filter empty. There’s no need for a new filter until spring. With fresh oil, refill the crankcase with the recommended amount just as though you were doing a regular oil change. Do not fill all the way up to the filler cap hole. This step is unnecessary and could harm your engine if you happened to start it in the spring with too much oil.

Remove the battery. Make sure to remove the negative terminal before the positive terminal. This will remove the battery from the circuit and will eliminate the chance of grounding the positive terminal with the screwdriver or wrench. Clean the outside of the battery with a mild baking soda and water solution and dry it carefully, the baking soda neutralizes the acids. Be sure not to get any solution inside the cells. Remove any corrosion from the terminals and from the wiring harness connections. Store the battery in a room that stays above freezing, off the floor, and preferably on a wooden shelf.

Recharge the battery with a one amp battery charger once a month. If the battery is not kept full charged, it may become permanently damaged and will have to be replaced.

Spray all of the vinyl and rubber parts with a rubber preservative. Be careful not to get anything on the tread of your tires, or on your brake rotors or pads.

Spray the unpainted surfaces of the motorcycle with the rust preservative (WD-40).

Spray WD-40 into the end of the exhaust pipe to coat the insides. Try to spray enough to reach the collectors (usually lowest points of the pipe) where moisture might collect and sit over the winter.

Stuff a rag into the exhaust pipe to prevent bugs or small woodland creatures from making your bike home.

You may want to cover the pipe with a plastic bag and tape it off or use an elastic band.

If possible, stuff a rag into the inlet of your air-box, air-dams, ram air holes and vent apertures, whatever. Again, we don't want any squirrels or excess moisture getting in there.

Cover the bike with a breathable bike cover. This is a good idea even if you will be storing the bike indoors as it prevents accidental scratches and dust.

Do not start the engine during the storage period.

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Q. I have heard that the Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) and ER6N engine has a 180 degree crankshaft, what does this mean?

A. Correct. The engine fitted to this bike is of a parallel twin design with a 180 degree crankshaft. What this means is that both cylinders are located alongside each other and the crankshaft is designed in such away that each piston stroke is 180 degrees apart.

Another way of explaining it is to say that there are two power strokes, 180 degrees apart followed by 540 degrees of crankshaft rotation prior to the next power stoke. The primary purpose of this is to minimize vibration and this is achieved because the pistons are always working in opposition, one reaching TDC while the other is reaching the bottom and vice versa. Consequently, the deceleration and acceleration events of each piston are effectively cancelled out by those of the other. Ditto for the effect of the two sets of crankshaft counterweights, which are also phased 180 degrees from one another.

Nevertheless, a 180-degree parallel-Twin does emit some vibration; this is caused by what is called a "rocking couple." Imagine what happens when one piston-the right one, say-reaches TDC and the other reaches BTC. The abrupt de-acceleration of the right piston tries to yank the engine upward, while the de-acceleration of the left one wants to yank it downward. The net result is that the engine wants to rotate counter-clockwise along a longitudinal axis. Then, 180-degrees of crank rotation later, the reverse happens and the engine tries to rotate clockwise when the right piston hits bottom and the left one reaches TDC. So, twice in each full crank-shaft revolution, the entire engine tries to rotate in this manner, first in one direction and then in the other. The result is a high frequency oscillation, which is the buzzing you feel in the Ninja 650R.

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Q. I have heard about a possible issue with the frame (chassis) on the Ninja 650R (ER-6F and ER-6N), what is this all about?

A. Some owners in both the USA and Europe have reported cracks to the frame in the area of the R/H forward engine mount. The cause of the fault appears to be that the distance between the upper motor mounts is too far apart during manufacture and when the motor is fitted and the mount bolts tightened excessive side loads is produced causing the right hand forward frame mount weld to crack under use. Kawasaki is carrying out a weld repair and repainting or replacing affected frames and shimming any gap so that any side load is removed. For 2007 models onward the welding on the R/H forward engine mount appears to have been improved.

Latest details including pictures are located in a PDF file on the homepage of this website. Owners are urged to monitor this area and contact Kawasaki or their dealer should any faults become evident.

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Q. What sort of fuel economy should I expect from the Ninja 650R (ER-6F) or ER-6N?

A. Some owners have experienced as high as 53-54 miles per US gallon (MPG US). This equates to 64-65 miles per imperial gallon (MPG IMP) or 22.5-23 kilometres per litre (km/l). A lot will depend on your style of riding, for example hard riding with rapid acceleration will have a negative impact on your fuel economy. Another factor is the type of riding, a lot of open road steady throttle riding will certainly increase your MPG. Kawasaki claim 60 MPG (72 MPG IMP or 25.5 km/l) and a few owners have claimed as high as 70 MPG US (84 MPG IMP or 29.5 km/l) but these are not the norm.

My own experience has been a high of 20 km/l (47 MPG US or 56 MPG IMP) and a low of 18 km/l (42 MPG US or 51 MPG IMP). Mind you I have a heavy right hand!

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Q. How far can I ride on a tank of fuel?

A. The total fuel tank capacity on the Ninja 650R (ER-6F) and ER-6N is 15.5 litres, this equates to 3.4 imperial gallons (Gal Imp) or 4.1 US gallons (Gal US). The capacity before the low fuel light will come on is (quoted by Kawasaki) 12 litres which equates to 2.6 imperial gallons or 3.2 US gallons. Therefore when the fuel light comes on steady you should have approximately 3.5 litres (0.9 Gal US or 0.8 Gal Imp) remaining. The actual distance you can travel will depend on your fuel economy. Below is a table listing the travelling distances based on varying fuel economy rates.

Economy Rates			Main Tank		Reserve Tank		Total
km/l	mpg US	mpg Imp	km	miles	km	miles	km	miles
30	70	84	360	224	105	65	465	289
26	60	72	312	194	91	57	403	250
23	54	65	276	171	81	50	357	222
20	47	56	240	149	70	43	310	193
18	42	51	216	134