Common Faults
The Ninja 650R (ER-6F)
and ER-6N has now been in production for a number of years, as with all
motorcycles it can suffer from mechanical problems. Many faults are the result of poor
maintenance, some are owner induced and yet others can be related to
performance modifications, then there are those that occur from wear and tear
or just poor design. So here is a list
of the most common problems particular to our bike along with some successful
solutions provided by owners from the Internet forums.
If you have any
faults to add, please email us. As
with all mechanical problems – always consult the Kawasaki Service Manual for
specific details and/or a suitably qualified mechanic.
1. Water Pump
Coolant Leaks
2. Coolant Tank
Overflow
3. Side Stand
Mount Crack
4. Fairing Buzz
5. Frame Crack
– R/H Front Engine Mount
6. Regulator /
Rectifier Failure
7. Fuel Pump
Failure
8. Exhaust
Header Pipe Crack
9. Swing-arm
Cap and Chain Adjustment Locking Nuts Missing
10. Clutch
Problems
11. FI Light On
12. Engine
Cut-out – Sidestand Switch
13. Cracked
Stick Coil Casing
14. Fuel Tank
Cap – Key Jammed
15. Airbox
Crankcase Breather Hose Leaking Oil
16. Play in the
Shock Absorber Top Mount
Water Pump Coolant Leaks (Occurrence level – rare)
A number of
owners have reported a coolant leak from the water pump area, located on the
forward right hand side of the engine.
Usually leaking coolant collects in the lower fairings and drips onto
the ground. In some cases where the
leak is small, dried coolant residue (white and green powder) is visible on
the bottom of the water pump and surrounding area. Often owners report a sweet smell as the
leaking coolant burns off. Usually
with this problem the leak source appears to be from a small hole at the base
of the pump.
As
with the picture above the leak is coming out of the Water Pump witness
hole. This is a relatively common
fault and indicates that the impeller water seal is leaking inside the water
pump. If you have a look at the Water
Pump Parts Diagram you will see a seal behind the Water Pump Impeller
(49063-1055 Seal – Mechanical, Water) this seal sits in the Housing
(13227-0011 Housing), in this housing is a hole which sits in a cavity
between the Coolant Seal and the Oil Seal.
Should either coolant or oil leak past their respective seals into
this cavity then it will drip from this hole and the appropriate seal needs
to be replaced. The cavity exists so
that should a seal leak occur the other systems
fluid will not be contaminated.
There are quite a few posts on the internet forums with similar faults. Repair should not be overly difficult if
you have some mechanical skills.
Briefly - drain coolant, remove pump housing and impeller, pop out
seal from housing and fit a new one, reassemble and refill coolant, bleed
coolant system.
Top
Coolant Tank Overflow (Occurrence level – rare)
Typically owners report coolant leaking from
the Coolant Tank Overflow Hose which runs from the Coolant Reservoir and
terminates under the Fuel Tank. This
means that any coolant overflowing ends up discharging on top of the engine
before running into the lower fairings and finally onto the ground.
Again owners report a
sweet smell as the leaking coolant burns off on the hot engine.
To date this has
been a relatively cheap fix, in all cases the
replacement of the Radiator Cap (P/N 49085-1078 Cap Assy,
Pressure) has fixed the problem.
The cooling system is
pressurized by the radiator cap to suppress boiling and the resultant air
bubbles which can cause engine overheating.
As the engine warms up, the coolant in the radiator and the water
jacket expands. The excess coolant
flows through the radiator cap and hose to the reserve tank to be stored
there temporarily.
The radiator cap has two valves. One is a pressure valve which holds the
pressure in the system when the engine is running. When the pressure exceeds 16.3 - 20.5 psi the pressure valve opens and releases the pressure to
the reserve tank. When the engine cools
down, another small valve (vacuum valve) in the cap opens. As the coolant
cools, the coolant contracts to form a vacuum in the system. The vacuum valve
opens and allows the coolant from the reserve tank to enter the radiator.
As you can see if either of these valves play up then you could end up with
an overfull overflow container.
Top
Side Stand Mount Crack (Occurrence level – rare)
Fortunately this fault is not all that
common. But as a couple of owners have
reported a failure of the frame structure which supports the side stand mount
it is worth monitoring this area as part of any regular maintenance for the
first signs of damage.
Possibly caused by owner abuse, corrosion, poor quality welding during manufacture or a combination
of all of these. This repair will be
relatively complex so unless you have good fabrication and welding skills
seek the help of a professional.
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Fairing Buzz
(Occurrence level – frequent)
This fault is a common complaint from many
owners. The infamous “fairing buzz”
usually occurs in a particular rev range and can be heard over engine and
wind noise, at its worst it has been described as a “howling noise”. No one definite cause is agreed by all owners,
its actual cause may in fact vary from one motorcycle to another. The critical areas are:
The Upper Cowling (centre) and Headlight
Assembly.
L/H and R/H Main Cowling Inner Panels.
L/H and R/H Main Cowling Upper Trim Panels
In 2006 Kawasaki issued a Factory Authorised
Repair (FAR) comprising installation paperwork and self adhesive damper kits
P/N 99999-0093 and P/N 99999-0095. A
copy of the FAR (EX650A6F Installation Instructions for Cowling Panel
Vibration Damper Kits) and a user guide for those attempting to solve the
problem are located on this website here
and here
respectively.
The “fairing buzz” is a warranty issue and is
being addressed by Kawasaki. In the
first instance you should contact you Kawasaki Dealer and ask them to remedy
this fault. Unfortunately a lot of owners
have received little satisfaction using this approach and even with the
damper kits fitted (factory fitted to 2007 models onward) the buzz returns.
A number of owners (including the author)
have carried out various fixes with good results. These fixes run the full gambit from just
tightening fairing screws through too insulating fairing mating surfaces from
surround structure and each other.
Briefly, if you wish to carry out this fix
yourself use the loop side of
self-adhesive Velcro tape to cover any chaff marks found on the fairings and
self-adhesive foam around the inside of the centre fairing between the centre
fairing and the headlight assembly.
Top
Frame Crack – R/H Front Engine Mount (Occurrence level – rare/occasional)
Some owners in both the USA and Europe have
reported cracks to the frame in the area of the R/H forward engine
mount. The cause of the fault appears
to be that the distance between the upper motor mounts is too far apart
during manufacture and when the motor is fitted and the mount bolts tightened
excessive side loads is produced causing the right hand forward frame mount
weld to crack under use. Kawasaki is
carrying out a weld repair and repainting or replacing affected frames and
shimming any gap so that any side load is removed. For 2007 models onward the welding on the
R/H forward engine mount appears to have been improved.
Although it is generally agreed by owners
that the cracks are the result of a design flaw (insufficient strength of the
R/H Front Mount) and excessive torque of the mount bolt to remove the gap
during assembly, Kawasaki have been slow in admitting any fault. Initially Kawasaki blamed 3rd
party frame sliders before cracked frames appeared on bikes without those
fitted or with Kawasaki (OEM) sliders fitted.
There are reports from some owners that
Kawasaki has stated that they will honour repair of this issue outside of
warranty (unsubstantiated by the author).
Outside of the warranty process, repair has been limited to welding of
the crack and reinforcing the existing mount.
Again unless you have good fabrication and welding skills seek the
help of a professional. Remember to
disconnect all major electrical items (ECU, Rectifier, Battery and Instrument
Cluster) before welding.
Prevention is worth considering for all
owners. Shimming of both L/H and R/H
front engine mounts is recommend even for later models with the improved
frame mount. Simply put, loosen off
the L/H and R/H front mount bolts (one at a time), measure the gap and shim
using washers. Torque the bolts to the
correct figure.
Further information on this issue is located here and here.
Top
Regulator / Rectifier Failure (Occurrence level – rare)
A number of owners have reported that their
Regulator / Rectifier (R/R) has failed, often it was preceded by their
headlight failing and then a subsequent battery failure. Troubleshooting by technicians found the
R/R output voltage was high and the R/R, harness, battery and headlight relay
were replaced. Reports indicate that
corrosion was evident on the pins of the R/R and harness connector.
The R/R (black box with cooling fins) is
located under the seat (LHS) near the battery compartment and its electrical
connector faces inwards. This
connector and harness is exposed to moisture and is force feed by the rear
wheel. Given that this is an expensive
repair outside of warranty it is recommended that owners, as part of regular
maintenance, clean and protect the connector and R/R pins with an electrical cleaner
and conductivity enhancer or a water displacement product.
Owners attempting the repairs (themselves)
outside of the warranty process should take a close look at the condition of
pins in the R/R connector and also the loom in this area as these are
particularly prone to damage during this failure. Briefly check the following:
1. Check the battery charging voltage
with a meter. With the engine running
(3000 rpm) the battery voltage (battery + terminal to – terminal) should be
14.2-15.2 volts.
2. Check the resistance of the stator
windings, 0.18-0.27 ohms between windings (black wire to black wire) and open
circuit to earth (each black wire to engine case).
3. Check the diodes in the R/R by
measuring the resistance of pin W/BL
to BK1, 2 & 3 then swap the leads of the meter over and repeat, if the
R/R is OK then there will be a low resistance in one direction and high
resistance in the other. Repeat for
BK/Y to BK1, 2 & 3. The Service
Manual also details some other tests that can be carried out on the R/R to
confirm serviceability.
A full guide to troubleshooting faults in the
charging system is located here
and here.
Top
Fuel Pump Failure (Occurrence level – rare)
This is not a common fault however a number
of owners have reported that their Fuel Pump has failed. Unfortunately this is a relatively
expensive repair as replacement is the only option. Information to date is that the unit is
sealed and repair is not possible. The
Fuel Pump is a high pressure unit (required for the Fuel Injection system)
and has a non replaceable filter screen (white coloured) attached. The Service Manual indicates that the Pump
should not be run without fuel, therefore we can
assume that the bike running out of fuel completely is not recommended.
The pump can be tested by applying 12 VDC to
the red and black wire (caution – see above advise). The Service Manual indicates that the Pump
(in tank with fuel) should run for approximately 3 seconds when the ignition
is switched on.
Kawasaki advise
that the original Fuel Pump Assembly P/N 49040-0010 has now been superseded
by P/N 49040-0026, hopefully this is an improved product to overcome this
failure.
Kawasaki.com list P/N
49040-0026 is fitted to the following:
ER650A6F (ER-6n (Australian)) (2006)
ER650A6S (ER-6n (European)) (2006)
ER650A7F (ER-6n (Australian)) (2007)
ER650A7F (ER-6n (European)) (2007)
ER650A8F (ER-6n (Australian)) (2008)
ER650A8F (ER-6n (European)) (2008)
ER650C9F (ER-6n) (2009)
ER650CAF (ER-6n) (2010)
ER650CBF (ER-6n (European))
(2011)
EX650A6F (Ninja 650R) (2006)
EX650A7F (Ninja 650R) (2007)
EX650A8F (Ninja 650R) (2008)
EX650C9F (Ninja 650R) (2009)
EX650CAF (Ninja 650R) (2010)
EX650CBF (Ninja 650R) (2011)
KLE650A7F (Versys (Canada)) (2007)
KLE650A7F (Versys (European)) (2007)
KLE650A8F (Versys (European)) (2008)
KLE650A8F (Versys) (2008)
KLE650A9F (Versys (European)) (2009)
KLE650A9F (Versys) (2009)
KLE650CAF (Versys) (2010)
KLE650CBF (Versys) (2011)
Some owners have reported contamination of
this filter, unfortunately as this is part of the part of the pump assembly
it can not be replaced separately and there is no owner information on
cleaning.
The Fuel Tank Low Level Light on the
instrument cluster is activated by a Level Sensor mounted on the Fuel Pump
Assembly. The height of the sensor can
be adjusted but unfortunately, should it fail the sensor cannot be purchased
separately. The Service Manual details
a test procedure for the sensor.
Top
Exhaust Header Pipe Crack (Occurrence level – rare)
A number of European owners have reported
that their Exhaust Header Pipe has snapped at the point where it enters the
Muffler. It appears that in all cases
it occurs around the small bulge in the header pipe where the silencer fits
and possibly this is a “stress raiser” and is due to engine vibration and the
way the OEM muffler is supported.
There have been few reports of this fault occurring from owners with
aftermarket slip-ons fitted to their bikes, the possibility exists that the
problem is also related to the increased weight of OEM mufflers over
aftermarket slip-ons (approx twice the weight in most cases).
To date all have been replaced under warranty
however for those owners outside of the warranty process, repair should be
possible by fabrication and welding of the pipe or replacement of the header
assembly. Repairs will be dependant on
the fabrication and welding skills available.
Again seek the help of a professional.
Top
Swing-arm Cap and Chain Adjustment Locking Nuts Missing (Occurrence level – rare)
This definitely falls into the category of
poor maintenance practices. A number
of owners have reported that their Swing Arm Cap and Chain Adjustment Locking
Nuts are missing. This is usually
after work on the rear wheel or chain adjustment by the owner or a mechanic.
Obviously these are a required item and when
the two nuts are loosened for maintenance they should be correctly locked at
the finish. These nuts are
“anti-locked” against each other and this would appear to be where the
confusion lies. If they are not locked
correctly they will unwind and the cap will eventually drop off.
The science of using two nuts to provide
locking is here. Basically when properly applied it is a
superior method of locking to most other methods for this application. Simply put with all work on the rear wheel
and all adjustment completed, fit the first nut (closest to the
swing-arm cap), it should be tightened to about half of the overall
tightening torque. The second (aft) nut is then placed on the adjuster and
the first nut held to prevent rotation by a spanner whilst the second nut is
tightened to the full torque value. To
check adequate locking, place a spanner on each nut and attempt to rotate the
first nut (closest to the swing-arm cap) anti-clockwise (loosening) at the
same time as you attempt to rotate the second nut (aft) clockwise
(tightening) using moderate force.
Remember tightening one nut
down and then simply tightening another nut on top of it achieves little
locking effect.
Some owners have recommended using a locking
compound on the threads, don’t! Not only is it poor mechanical practice for
this type of application but it could cause issues during subsequent
maintenance. One forum suggestion that
has merit and could be adopted is the use of a nylon lock nut in the second
position.
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Clutch Problems (Occurrence level – frequent)
Problems relating to the clutch run the full
gambit from “it feels sub par” to “slips all the time” and is a common owner
complaint on many forums. Frequently
problems arise soon after the purchase of a new bike as the clutch cable
stretches. Usually proper adjustment
of the clutch lever free play (2 - 3 mm or 0.08 - 0.12 in) at the clutch
lever adjuster overcomes many of the problems. Full instructions are here or are described
in the Service Manual.
On other occasions problems occur after an
engine oil change when oil with friction modifier additives (designed for car
engines to improve fuel economy) is used.
These additives affect the wet clutch (the clutch operates in engine
oil for cooling) and causes slippage.
Draining the oil, flushing and filter replacement fix this issue. Using oil designated especially for
motorcycles is a good idea. Different
oil types (synthetic, semi-synthetic and mineral based), brands and grades
can also affect how the clutch feels.
A number of owners have commented on the
improvement in clutch performance after replacing their clutch springs. There were reports that a batch of weak
clutch springs was fitted to some 2006 models.
Clutch spring replacement is described in the
Service Manual or instructions with pictures are located here
and here.
Top
FI Light On (Occurrence
level – occasional)
Occasionally owners report that the FI light
(Fuel Injection) located on the instrument cluster illuminates. The FI light will illuminate any time a
fault with a component in the Fuel Injection system occurs and this fault is
stored in the ECU. To assist
troubleshooting the system has a method for interrogating
the ECU and displaying the fault codes.
The Service Manual explains the procedure for checking these codes as FI light flashes on instrument
panel.
Depending on the severity of the fault the bike may still run and will usually be safe to ride, in this mode
the FI light is on to provide information that something is out of range, the
fault code is stored identifying the fault but the bike will keep running
normally. One of the most common
faults in this mode is the “tip over” function, usually activated when the
bike is dropped. This can be cleared
by standing the bike upright and turning off, then on the ignition key.
In some cases the
ECU enters a "limp" mode with a basic fuel schedule where you the
engine keeps running but will feel underpowered, again the code is
stored. If the ECU senses a "critical
error" it will not allow the bike to start or stay running and the code
is stored.
To enter
diagnostic mode ground the diagnostic terminal to the negative battery cable
in the sequence detailed and then count FI light blinks to get the error
code. The diagnostic terminal is
located under the seat, coming off the wiring harness on the right side near
the frame. The diagnostic wire is orange with a black stripe, and you use a
jumper wire to ground it to the negative battery terminal. The service codes are a series of long and
short blinks.
There are a
number of diagnostic levels; instructions for interrogating the ECU and
clearing any stored codes are located here. Given the complexity of the system and the
number of components involved a copy of the Service Manual is a necessity
when attempting to troubleshoot any fault.
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Engine Cut-out – Sidestand Switch (Occurrence level – rare)
An intermittent fault occurs with the engine
cutting out when first gear is selected with the clutch lever pulled in and
the sidestand up, the fault sometimes deteriorates
to a regular occurrence. The bike can
be restarted usually and will occasionally develop a random “flat spot”
during acceleration in first or second gear or cruising in higher gears for a
split second. On the odd occasion the
engine dies completely both stationary or at speed with the potential to
create a dangerous situation.
The fault has been traced to moisture inside
the sidestand switch causing a short across the terminals or to earth
simulating a sidestand down signal and killing the engine. The sidestand down switch is part of the
safety interlock circuit which prevents the engine running and gear selection
with the sidestand in the down position.
The sidestand switch is a relatively
expensive part and owners have reported good results cleaning and lubricating
the switch.
“The presence of moisture inside the sidestand switch was causing the
circuit to bridge the terminals even when the sidestand was up simulating the
on position as if the sidestand was down.
The three screws holding the two part switch housing together were not
tight enough to stop water and moisture getting into the switch.”
“I
cleaned the housing inside and out, including the terminals, greased the
moving parts inside the switch and screwed tightly the two part
housing.”
Top
Cracked Stick Coil Casings (Occurrence level – rare)
A number of owners have reported that after a
period of engine rough running or during spark plug inspection/replacement
they have discovered cracks in the plastic casing of the Stick Coils. Stick Coils are a combined ignition coil
and spark plug cap.
The consensus is that the Stick Coils
(Kawasaki P/N 21171-1286) appears to have cracked due to heat damage, however it is also likely that it is due to
internal corrosion. There is often
evidence of moisture ingress and rust on the Stick Coils during removal and
some owners recommend fitting with a smear of silicone grease around the
rubber seal to enhance sealing. Some
owners who discovered this issue during servicing and not had a rough running
issue have carried out a temporary repair to the Stick Coil using High
Temperature RTV to fill the crack.
From internet forum posts the
following repair procedures may work:
The corroded metal sheath can be removed by firstly pulling the rubber
boot seal off the bottom of the coil then removing the cracked plastic
sleeve. The corroded metal sleeve can
then be cleaned up and treated with “rust kill” or replaced with some
aluminium foil as it is probably required for EMI suppression. The plastic sleeve can be replaced by
wrapping with electrical or self annealing tape or repaired using Araldite or
High Temperature RTV to fill
the crack.
The other problem is that if
the stick coil is left in the motor for too long after it
has split it becomes very difficult to remove. There are reports from a dealer who discovered
this issue during a service and it necessary to remove the entire motor to
extract the coils.
The only way to get around this issue to keep taking the coils out to check
them. Do it regularly and you should
be able to spot a split as it forms and prevent the real grief of getting it
stuck. Again consider using a non-conductive grease on the exterior of the stick-coils
when refitting especially around the rubber seal.
Both the primary and secondary windings of
the Stick Coil can be tested using a multimeter as follows:
Primary windings (A) should be 1.1 to 1.5
ohms. Secondary windings (B) should be
10.8 to 16.2 kilo-ohms (10800 to 16200 ohms).
Kawasaki advise
that the original Ignition Coil Assembly P/N 21171-1286 has now been
superseded by P/N 21171-0028, hopefully this is an improved product to
overcome this failure.
Kawasaki use Nippon Denso
coils, the Kawasaki P/N 21171-1286 is a Denso P/N 129700-4580, and P/N
21171-0028 is a Denso P/N 129700-5350.
The primary windings for both these parts are 1.1 to 1.5 ohms. The secondary windings (coil windings - top
pin to plug) are 10.8 to 16.2 kilo-ohms.
Any stick coil meeting these characteristics and having the correct physical
dimensions should work OK as a replacement.
These are relatively costly items so those
looking for second-hand (used) replacements can also use Stick Coils fitted
to the following Kawasaki models as follows:
Kawasaki.com list P/N
21171-1286 fitted to the following:
ER650A6F (ER-6n (Australian)) (2006)
ER650A6S (ER-6n (European)) (2006)
ER650A7F (ER-6n (Australian)) (2007)
ER650A7F (ER-6n (European)) (2007)
ER650A8F (ER-6n (Australian)) (2008)
ER650A8F (ER-6n (European)) (2008)
ER650C9F (ER-6n) (2009)
ER650CAF (ER-6n) (2010)
EX650A6F (Ninja 650R) (2006)
EX650A7F (Ninja 650R) (2007)
EX650A8F (Ninja 650R) (2008)
EX650C9F (Ninja 650R) (2009)
EX650CAF (Ninja 650R) (2010)
KLE650A7F (CANADA ONLY) (2007)
KLE650A7F (Versys (European)) (2007)
KLE650A8F (Versys (European)) (2008)
KLE650A8F (Versys) (2008)
KLE650A9F (Versys (European)) (2009)
KLE650A9F (Versys) (2009)
ZR1000-A1 (Z1000) (2003)
ZR1000-A1H (Z1000 (European)) (2003)
ZR1000-A2 (Z1000) (2004)
ZR1000-A2H (Z1000 (European)) (2004)
ZR1000-A3 (Z1000) (2005)
ZR1000-A3H (Z1000 (European)) (2005)
ZR1000A6F (Z1000 (European)) (2006)
ZR1000A6F (Z1000) (2006)
ZR1000B7F (Z1000 (European)) (2007)
ZR1000B7F (Z1000) (2007)
ZR1000B8F (Z1000 (European)) (2008)
ZR1000B8F (Z1000) (2008)
ZR1000B9F (Z1000 (European)) (2009)
ZR750-K1 (Z750S) (2005)
ZR750K6F (Z750S) (2006)
ZR750L7F (Z750 (Australian)) (2007)
ZR750L7F (Z750 (European)) (2007)
ZR750L8F (Z750 (Australian)) (2008)
ZR750L8F (Z750 (European)) (2008)
ZR750L9F (Z750 (European)) (2009)
ZR750LAF (Z750 (European)) (2010)
ZR750LAS (Z750 (European)) (2010)
ZX1200-B3 (Ninja ZX-12R) (2004)
ZX1200-B4 (Ninja ZX-12R) (2005)
ZX1200B6F (Ninja ZX-12R (European)) (2006)
Kawasaki.com list P/N 21171-0028 fitted to the following:
KLE650CAF (Versys) (2010)
ZR1000DAF (Z1000) (2010)
Owners report that a Mitsubishi
stick coil P/N F5T560-5323 can also be used.
Top
Fuel Tank Cap – Key Jammed (Occurrence level – occasional)
This issue appears regularly on the forums
relating to the Ninja 650R (ER-6F), ER-6N and Versys. Usually described by owners as simply being
unable to open the fuel tank cap.
Either the key cannot being fully inserted or is unable to be rotated
fully to allow the cap to be opened with a white powder residue present
around or in the keyhole which is likely to indicate corrosion. Usually this problem presents itself at the
Petrol Station fuel pump and some unfortunate owners have exacerbated the
problem by using excessive force attempting to unlock the cap and snapped the
key off inside.
The corrosion is probably caused by water
ingress into the keyhole and often occurs when the bike is parked outside for
long periods. A number of owners have
reported good results freeing up the mechanism by spraying with WD40 and
gently working the key in the lock whilst pushing down on the cap. After freeing up use compressed air
to blow out any excess WD40, let it dry off for a couple days and then apply
a very small amout of graphite lock lube down the
keyhole.
Top
Airbox Crankcase Breather
Hose Leaking Oil (Occurrence
level – frequent)
The oily mess in this area is a common
complaint from many owners. The engine
breather system vents crankcase gases into the base of the airbox and then
these are inducted back into the combustion chamber.
The issue is due to the poor
design of the breather hose between the engine casing and the airbox,
specifically the grooved portion of the hose at the top where it seals
against the airbox. This groove does
not seal adequately and allows any oil collecting at the bottom of the airbox
to leak past and create a mess. This
is not a major issue, more a bit of an eye sore.
The fix is to remove the
airbox, clean the hose (especially around the groove) and refit the hose with
a bead of sealant in the groove. The
sealant should be fuel/oil resistant.
I used some Yamabond 4 (Threebond
1104, Hondabond, Permatex
or equivalent will do) which I had lying around. A smear of sealant around the top of the
hose (inside the airbox) when refitted completes the fix.
Top
Play in the Shock Absorber Top
Mount (Occurrence
level – occasional)
A number of owners have reported movement
(side-play) in the top mount of the shock absorber. Due to the geometry of the shock absorber and
the rear swing-arm this play is magnified at the rear wheel. This movement can lead to handling issues
such as the rear wheel skipping out in corners.
To check if your bike has any play – support
the bike so that there is no weight on the rear wheel and swing-arm, this can
be done in a number of ways. Use a
second person to tilt the bike over onto the sidestand, use a centre stand
lifter like the “Abba Stand”, sling the rear of the bike with straps or use a
rear paddock stand to lift the bike onto axle stands positioned under the
riders peg mounts. With the bike
raised and the shock absorber at full extension attempt to lift the swing-arm
by hand or with a pry bar under the rear wheel. There should be no movement what so ever in
the swing-arm or shock.
The rear shock absorber upper
mount utilises a “metalastic bush” (item 92160) to attach
the shock to the frame, Kawasaki refer to this item as a damper. The damper is constructed of metal inner
and outer tubes sandwiched together with a heavy rubber material providing
approximately 20° of rotation. The
inner tube is slightly longer than the outer and is held (clamped) firmly in
the frame yoke by a bolt (item 92002).
The damper assembly is pressed into shock absorber.
The damper is not a bush and
should not rotate around the bolt, the damper inner tube should be clamped by
the frame at the specified torque and as the swing arm moves up or down then
the rubber material deforms.
The issue appears to be that
due to inconsistencies in frame manufacture, the frame yoke is approximately
0.010” too wide for the damper inner tube when bolt (item 92002) is
tightened. This allows rotation of the
inner tube around the bolt and some side-play.
Repair
is relatively simple, either shim the play with a washer or close up the
frame yoke. Shimming can be
accomplished by first checking that the bolt is at the correct torque and
then measuring the side play with a feeler gauge. Shim with either a washer of the correct
size or dress the damper down so that a washer of a known size can be used.
With
play of less than 0.010” the other option is to close up the frame yoke. With the shock removed, use the bolt (item
92002), a 1/2 inch drive 24 inch bar and socket to tighten the bolt and
squeeze the frame yoke closer together.
This method is a little agricultural but is effective. Go slowly and do
not over-stress the bolt, a broken bolt or stripped captured nut in the frame
will result in a major repair.
Likewise closing up the yoke to far will also result in major
headaches.
Remember
during reassembly to tighten the bolt (item 92002) with the bikes weight on
the shock so that the damper is at its null (centre) point.
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